THE NEW SCHOOL- PARSONS PARIS
PARSONS
PARIS
SUMMER 2022
Overview
In the Summer of 2022 I attended Parsons New School in Paris. I took the Fashion Design Process course with designer Moon Hussain as my professor. The course project was to study a french designer, assigned at random, and to emulate that designer's style while making the garment our own. During this process we were to immerse ourselves thoroughly in the design process, trying different designs and multiple ideas. I was fortunate to be assigned Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Over the course of three weeks I had the great joy of getting to discover the wonders Castelbajac, and truly feel as though he reignited my passion for artistic designs.
The Process
I was assigned to study French designer Jean Charles de Castelbajac. My process began in a sketchbook, where I jotted down ideas, studied his different elements of style, and looked into his inspirations. In this journal I began to conceptualize a potential collection. I decided my collection would draw inspirations from Castelbajac's use of boxy-fit garments and using the garment as a canvas. The phrase "heart on my sleeve" continuously came to mind, and I decided to incorporate it into my garment.
As I continued my research I decided my theme would be based on classic idioms, ranging from "heart on my sleeve," "apple of my eye," and "time is money." I ended up designing a 7 piece collection, each garment featuring one of these idioms.
Process Video
The Construction
Since we only were assigned to make one garment, I selected my original idiom of "Heart On My Sleeve" to be featured on my garment. I started by selecting my fabric. I knew I wanted a white fabric to symbolize a blank canvas, and I found large scraps of a lightweight white denim fabric in Parson's excess fabric. Since Castelbajac also put an emphasis on sustainability I knew that I wanted to do my best to use as much of the fabric as possible, leaving little to waste.
I took this summer course before I learned flat pattern or even draping, so I began by pinning muslin to a dress form to create my own pattern pieces.
I continued my process by designing three different collar pieces. I knew I wanted a detachable heart-shaped collar, that would add to the garment when attached, but not take away from the other components of the dress. I ended up choosing the plain white collar filled with wadding to create dimension and finished with a red edge stitch .
I then started on the process of my heart appliques. I knew I wanted to use the fabric scraps to create my hearts. I also knew I didn't want just one design of heart on the dress.
Once I had successfully created a muslin mockup featuring all of the components I had decided on, I moved on to using my fashion fabric and completed my garment.
The Meaning
I've always known I wanted to do something creative as my career. However, after my first two years in my Fashion Design program I was feeling uninspired and unsure of what I wanted to do and whether I was even capable of having a future in the industry. This course opened a door for me I thought didn't exist. I was forced to create, to think, and to try.
The phrase "Heart On My Sleeve" ended up meaning a lot to me. I've always felt that it was important to be emotionally transparent, and I've done my best to live with my heart on my sleeve in all situations. This process allowed me to channel these emotions into a dress that I'm so incredibly proud of.
I had the great honor of getting to photograph one of my close friends Caroline Bardwell in my dress. She wore the garment beautifully and portrayed the spirit of the garment well. All of my thanks and love!